The Beer Tank!

Today we arrived in Quito, Ecuador.  We'll be staying here for two nights before heading to the Galapagos Islands.  We're kinda glad to get out of Peru.....too many tourists!  

Sad, but true....over the past 21 days.....we've been starved of good beer!  It's been very hard sitting around drinking crappy beer for 3 weeks!  Downright miserable!  So as soon as we arrived in Ecuador, we located a brew-pub near our hotel that served up 6-8 craft brews from light blond to heavy dark.  So we ordered up a sampler to taste some goooooooood homemade Ecuadorian beer!  Mmmmmmm.....

  
The brew pub featured one of the coolest things we've ever seen....a giant beer fish tank (minus the fish!).  We wound up making friends with the bartender and he let Leonard have some fun behind the bar.  Tips are appreciated!

 

Cooking @ The Sumaq

We are staying at another great hotel (Sumaq Hotel) at the foot of Machu Picchu.  We definitely can't complain about our lodging on this trip....some of the best hotels ever!  Today we have a free day to spend around Machu Picchu.  We thought we would explore the craft markets and enjoy a complimentary cooking class at our hotel in the afternoon.

There are certain things we were told to munch on while in Peru.  Eating is one of our favorite pastimes when we travel.  Any food.  Any where.  Any time!  So over the past week we have attempted to taste some of the following foods:  1.) alpaca meat (good!), 2.) picarones w/ syrup (funnel cakes without powdered sugar), 3.) pulpo (octopus), 4.) ceviche (raw fish in lime juice), and 5.) cuy (guinea pig).  We also looooooooved Inca corn (roasted corn with salt)!

 The Sumaq Hotel offered a free cooking class this afternoon to demonstrate how to make ceviche (and pisco sours).  Jenesa and I took a cooking class while in Vietnam and loved it....so we thought we would do the same in Peru!  Cerviche is usually served as an appetizer. Fresh raw fish is cut up and tossed with lemon or lime juice – the acid of which “cooks” the fish, and is combined with onions and chili peppers.

This dish is kinda like sushi without the rice.....although waaaaaay too many onions for my liking!  We used fresh trout as our raw fish, but other types of seafood can be used.  After 20 minutes of instruction....we whipped up quite a beautiful plate of ceviche!  Now it's time to eat it!

Hiking For Dummies

We're not hikers.  We don't pretend to be hikers.  We don´t own hiking shoes, walking sticks, or  giant backpacks.  We don't wear REI, The North Face, or Columbia.  We don't carry binoculars, bottles of water, or an expensive camera.  We're not here to break a sweat.  We're tourists....plain and simple!  We came to Peru to see Machu Picchu, drink some cerveza (spanish beer), and blog about it.  Cheers!

After hiking around Machu Picchu today.....I, Corbett Leonard, certainly needed an ice cold cerveza!!!  I guess I'm the Dummie today.....because I looked like a total idiot more than a few times.  I was literally on all fours at one point dragging my sorry ass down the walkway because I was scared out of my mind.  I couldn't even stand up!  My legs began to wobble and there was nothing to hold onto....just a narrow path and an 8,000 foot drop to the bottom of the mountain.....so on my ass I went!  Like a dummie!

Good ol' Jenesa spent most of the afternoon laughing at me....and also hammin' it up in most of the pictures.  We even tried to get a little creative (see photo #2)!  Go to this link to view the rest of our Machu Picchu photos (Photos @ Machu Picchu).

We were supposed to spend the afternoon hiking to the Sun Gate.  This was once the main entrance to Machu Picchu and follows an original Inca Trail that steadily climbs through Machu Picchu’s agricultural terraces HIGHER into the mountains.  The roundtrip trek usually takes 2 hours to complete.  Unfortunately, Leonard had seen enough!  And, Jenesa was perfectly fine hanging out with the alpacas....

Remember....I'm not a hiker.  I don't pretend to be a hiker.  I'm simply a tourist....and an absolute dummie at 8,000 feet above sea level!  Now, where's the nearest pub?

Choo Choo To Machu Picchu

Jenesa (and I) were a little spoiled last night.  We have been staying in some very nice hotels during our summer travels!  But last night the Aranwa Sacred Valley Hotel & Spa was far beyond anything  we could have imagined on this trip.  Our overnight room was almost as big as our house back home!  We almost hated to leave this morning for the train to Machu Picchu!

PeruRail hugged the Urubamba River from the Sacred Valley to Machu Picchu.  A short 80 minute train ride and we were there....ready to see this Wonder of the World.  We were scheduled for a guided tour of the area in the morning followed by a buffet lunch.  In the afternoon we had time to return and trek other areas around the mountain.

From the main town area....you need to take a shuttle bus 8,000 feet up the mountain on switchback roads barely wide enough for two vehicles to pass each other.  It's a bit scary if you're sitting next to the window and notice there are no guardrails or any type of "saving grace" if the driver gets a little too close to the edge.  It was one of the longest 20 minute rides of my life!

When we finally reached the top of the mountain.....tada!  Machu Picchu!

Peace In The (Sacred) Valley

Between Cusco and Machu Picchu lies the Urubamba Valley (or the Sacred Valley).  The valley was appreciated by the Incas due to its special geographical and climatic qualities.  Today we're bus'ing our way from Cusco into the heart of the Valley (staying one night), and then taking the train into Machu Picchu tomorrow.

 

Our challenge today was to climb to the top of the Terraces at Ollantaytambo. This massive site served as both a temple and a fortress for the Incas.  At some time, for reasons unknown, work mysteriously stopped on this huge project.  The amazing thing to see here is where all the big boulders and stones came from (2.5 miles away!)....and how the Incas built ramps and channels to move them.

Massive multi-sided blocks were precisely fit together in interlocking patterns in order to withstand the disastrous effects of earthquakes.  The stones at Ollantaytambo are so perfectly put in place that you cannot insert a piece of paper in between them, they are locked into place in a way that just defies all logical explanation.

The Wall of the Six Monoliths has six stones joined with narrow fillet stones - a style found nowhere else in the Inca Empire.  The largest stone is nearly 13ft. high and weighs over 50 tons!  One stone!  And it came from a quarry 2.5 miles away!  How? 

Inca Stonemasonry Info

Testing Positive In Peru

Don´t worry....it´s legal in Peru!  To combat altitude sickness....Jenesa and I are drinking Cocoa Tea.  Cocoa leaves are used in this tea to slightly numb the entire body to counteract high altitudes.  Do you know what else cocoa leaves are used for?  These same leaves are used in the production of cocaine.  Yep!  Again....don´t worry!  Even the Pope is drinkin' this stuff!  The leaves must go through a very complex and scientific process to convert into the actual drug.  But according to an article I read.....for a very short time, cocoa leaf "users" will test positive for cocaine.   Shhhhhhhhhh......

Looney for Llamas

Guess who paid $1 to have her picture taken with a llama?  Even the Peruvian lady is laughing at how silly American tourists are!!!

I Need A Doctor...

Today my head was on the brink of exploding....and Jenesa was dizzier than normal (haha).  Nobody cared to warn us that Cusco was 12,000 feet above sea level.  What does that mean?  It means if you are one of the 70% of people who are effected by altitude sickness....you´re screwed!  Lucky us!  In high altitudes the air is thin and dry.  And, because of this, you have to breathe at short intervals.  Breathing this way causes you to lose more water exhaling than you gain by inhaling.  So you wind up dehydrating yourself very quickly by just breathing!!!

Unfortunately, there is no "cure" for altitude sickness....other than descending back down to normal elevation.  For us....that wouldn´t happen for another 3 days.  The next few days would take us through Cusco, the Sacred Valley, and then Machu Picchu.

How we survived a 5 hour city tour today.....I have no idea!

The city of Cusco (or Cuzco) is said to be built in the shape of the puma, a sacred animal for the Incas. The head is represented by the fortress Sacsaywaman (Sexy Woman), the heart by the plaza of Huacaypata, and the converging Huatanay and Tullumayo rivers represent the tail.  This is where your history lesson ends.....

.....and I´ll let our photos do the rest of the talking.  The Incas were so far ahead of their time in technological advances (roads, buildings, agriculture, and calendar) that it boggles your mind when you see it up close and in person.  I´m not going to bore you with all of that information.  Our current technology of 2015 allows you to do your own research.  Just Google those crazy Incas and find out for yourself what we are spending 3 days learning and seeing.  www.google.com  

 Plaza de Armas (Cusco)

 Sacsaywaman

 Puca Pucara

Koricancha "Sun" Temple

The Magic Water Circuit

Before leaving Lima we spent the night at a downtown water park.  No swimming trunks required!  The Lima municipal government transformed an old area of the city into an awesome tour of dancing water and lights.  There are more than a dozen fountains sending water shooting into the air, choreographed to music and light (we did get a little wet!).

The largest fountain in the park, named "Magic Fountain", contains a jet which forces water to a Guiness World Record height of over 240 feet.  Additional attractions are the Tunnel Fountain (100ft walk-thru), the Fantasia Fountain (site of a regularly scheduled laser and picture show), the Rainbow Fountain (each row of jets displays different colors of the rainbow), and the Pyramid Fountain.

Lunch & Kennedy Park

We're staying in Miraflores which is a suburb of Lima, and considered one of the finest districts of Lima and very popular with tourists.  Our hotel is situated about 3 blocks from downtown Miraflores where all the shops, parks, and restaurants are located on the main avenue.  From our hotel window on the 14th floor we can pretty much see the entire area around us!

We were equipped with a map and a few suggested local restaurants for lunch.  The only thing standing in our way was Kennedy Park.  One of the most curious features of the park is it's large population of cats. Legend holds that the cats were introduced to help fight off rats. Whether true or not everywhere you look in the park you will see them.  Cats everywhere!  Lunch would have to wait!

We've been budgeting pretty well on this trip....and eating well too!  If it's not cheese...it's red meat!  We've been feasting on lots of filet mignon ($12 for a huge, juicy filet).  Today we decided to splurge on some seafood for lunch.  Our hotel recommended Alfresco's.

Grill catamaran 

mixture of charcoal-grilled brochettes

of tuna and salmon, prawns, octopus,

scallops and squids served with

chimichurri and hot pepper of the house

Believe it or not....this caught my eye as we browsed the menu.  And, I am now a fan of octopus!  It was absolutely tasty!

Jenesa and I wound up sharing another seafood dish.  Black risotto served with grilled crab, prawns, and squids.  I refused to kiss Jenesa for the rest of the day after eating the black risotto.  She wound up looking like this!

Sleepy In Lima

I've yawned seven times today and it's not even lunch time yet!  Why am I tired?  Another city sightseeing tour!  After four previous city tours through South America....I've had enough!  Seriously, this city tour was pretty bad.  If we had known what we know now....we would've planned for a different activity this morning.

First stop was the romantic Love Park (Parque del Amor) which overlooked the Pacific Ocean.  Each year the mayor holds a kissing competition for the couple who can sustain the longest kiss, and the sculpture at the park celebrates this.

We managed to arrive just in time at the Government Palace to see the changing of the guard ceremony.  At noon every day, the main avenue in front of the building, and fronting the Main Square, you can watch the Dragoons of the Presidential Guard of mounted infantry perform their traditional ritual.

Finally, we crashed a church service in session (it's Sunday!) at the Church of San Francisco.  We really weren't there for the church service....but to wander down into the catacombs underneath the church.   The catacombs were actually part of Lima's original cemeteries, which were built under churches. Tour guides say an estimated 75,000 bodies are buried under San Francisco alone, and many of the remains are exposed, stacked in strange patterns in circular stone pits.  No photographs were allowed during this adventure.

Please wake me up when we get to Machu Picchu!  Yawn!

The View From Seat 8C

Flying from Buenos Aires to Lima, Peru.....we looked out our window and saw the gorgeous view of the Andes Mountains.  Those distant mountaintops (hiding under the clouds) are covered with snow.  Hopefully it's a bit warmer where we're going!  We're definitely logging some flight miles on this trip!

 

Day @ The Ponderosa

In Argentina, ranches dedicated to cattle breeding and to growing grains are called Estancias.  Today we spent a full day in the pampas (level plains) where Buenos Aires ends and the home of the gauchos (cowboys)!  Jenesa wanted to ride the horses....and I went along for the free lunch!

We marched our horses around the ranch in the chilly afternoon....and then Jenesa just had to go for a ride on the wagon before lunch.  I decided to pass on the wagon ride....my silver bullets were freezing (if you know what i mean)!  Today was by far the coldest day of our trip.  I tried to keep warm (and learn some new grilling techniques) by watching Hop Sing whip up our lunch meats over the kitchen fire.

After lunch, the folklore show began and showcased some music and dancing.  We met a young couple from Norway that sat with us and shared stories of their trip through Brazil.  I think we were the only 4 people (out of 100+) at the ranch who spoke English.  The day ended with a demonstration of typical horseback games - such as the carrera de sortijas, where two teams gallop at full tilt under a wooden arch and try to pass a pin through a small ring hanging from the arch.